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  • The Paint Shop at Brindel's
    13 S Main St Reedsville, PA 17084
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    Is it Still Paint?

    Technology isn’t something most people think of when it comes to paint, but at Benjamin Moore we’re constantly working to develop products that solve problems and make you rethink what paint can do. Since Benjamin Moore paint goes so far beyond your expectations of paint, it kind of makes you wonder...is it still paint?

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For a successful painting project, The Paint Shop at Brindels and Benjamin Moore offer these tips:

Preparation
Begin by removing as much furniture as possible from the room. Use drop cloths to cover the floor and any remaining furniture. While plastic is ideal for furniture, canvas drop cloths absorb paint, are not slippery, will not move, and can be reused.

Next, remove any pictures, mirrors, window treatments, and electrical/light switch plates. Loosen the ceiling plates of hanging light fixtures and cover the fixtures.

Because surface dirt can cause poor adhesion, use a light detergent to wash surfaces that are soiled, that are touched often, or that may have any oily residue from cooking. Take care not to leave any residue from the detergent.

Wash doors and trim, particularly where they are handled. After they are clean, wipe surfaces with a damp cloth and allow them to dry before painting.

Pen, Crayon, and Water Stains

Use a liquid detergent to remove as much of the markings left by pens, crayons, and water stains as possible, and wipe with clean water.

For any remaining marks, spot prime the affected areas with Moore's® QD 30® or Fresh Start® to prevent "bleeding" through the finish coat.

Glossy Surfaces and Imperfections

To ensure proper adhesion, sand glossy surfaces with fine sandpaper. Be sure to remove sanding dust. Vacuum surfaces clean and wipe with a tack cloth.

Examine floor, wall, and ceiling surfaces for nail holes, cracks, or any other surface imperfections. Use a putty knife to rake out any large plaster cracks or loose particles in your walls and ceilings.

Spackling

Firmly press spackling compound into crevices with a putty knife and smooth until the compound is flush with the surface.

To fill mitered trim joinings (which are open) and door or window trim that is separated from your wall, press the compound into the crevices, and smooth it with your finger. Allow it to dry and then sand lightly.

Because patching compound shrinks when it dries, it is often necessary to apply the compound a second time after the first coat has dried.

For spackling work of this kind, we recommend Moorlastic® Lightweight Compound and Moorlastic Vinyl Spackling Paste.

Loose Paint

Use a putty knife to remove any loose or scaling paint. When you remove paint from walls or ceilings, sand paint edges to ensure a smooth surface. This will marry the two levels of paint so the edges will not be noticed when it is re-coated.

When removing paint from the sash, trim, or doors, use a fine sandpaper to sand the entire surface.

Priming

A critical step before painting, priming seals the surface and prolongs the wet edge of finished coats, reducing lap marks and ensuring a uniform color and luster.

There is a common myth that walls that have been painted many times do not need priming, but many layers of latex paint can actually result in a surface that is very absorbent and requires priming.

It is usually not necessary to apply primer to sashes, trim and doors that already have an enamel finish. If extensive repair work has been done, however, you should apply a primer to these areas.

Priming Products to Use

For patched wall surfaces, spot prime with Regal First Coat® or Fresh Start® primers. For new drywall, we recommend using a latex primer.

When applying primer to previously painted drywall, use Moore's® Alkyd Enamel Underbody, Moore's Alkyd Primer Sealer, Regal First Coat, or Fresh Start.

For walls and ceilings with a porous, flat finish, use Regal First Coat or Fresh Start.

Wood surfaces that are unpainted or that have been previously painted and sanded should be primed with Moore's Alkyd Enamel Underbody or Fresh Start.

"Boxing" Paint

When using more than one can of paint for a particular job, "Boxing" paint ensures color consistency.

Boxing paint is the process of combining all the paint  you will be using into one large container. This is especially important when painting a large surface area such as a home’s exterior, where even a slight color variation from one can of paint to another is markedly visible.

For most interior jobs, an empty 5-gallon container works fine. Simply pour all cans of the same color paint into the large container, and stir to combine. Whether you are mixing 2 or 20 gallons of paint together, the key is to make sure all the paint is combined to ensure a single, uniform color. Once the paint is combined, you can pour it into a smaller can or paint tray for ease of application.

Cleanup

Once you've completed your painting project, you'll need to clean up, store any extra paint for touch-up work, and dispose of any leftover paint.

Alkyd paints

To clean your brushes, work solvent into the bristles, squeezing out as much paint and solvent as possible. Repeat until paint disappears from your brush.

Rinse your brushes in a clear solvent, then wash in soapy water. Rinse and let dry. Wrap and store in heavy paper.

Rollers

Disassemble your roller and submerge the cover in solvent. When most paint has been worked out, wash the cover in mild detergent, and rinse in clear water.

Remove paint from frame and hardware with solvent. Hang roller to dry.

Water- Based (Latex) Paints

Follow the cleaning procedures noted above for alkyd paints, substituting soapy water for paint solvent.

Proper Disposal

Use cans of paint you have until they are nearly empty, reserving a small amount for touch-ups. Be sure to save alkyd products for hazardous waste collection.

In most states, latex paint can be disposed with your household trash once it has been dried out in a can. Leave the can lid open to show that the paint has hardened.

Recycle your dry, empty containers in your local recycling program. Also consider donating any products you don't use to a nearby community group or civic organization.

TipsA Checklist of Supplies for your next painting project...

• 2-inch sash brush
• 3-inch paintbrush
• Bucket
• Can key
• Caulk
• Caulking gun
• Drop cloths
• Extension pole
• Gloves (if using solvents)
• Goggles (if using solvents)
• Mineral spirits
• Painter's tape
• Putty knife
• Rags
• Roller covers
• Roller handle
• Roller tray
• Sandpaper
• Screwdriver
• Spackling compound
• Step ladder
• Stirring sticks
• Trim guard